How much turbo yeast per gallon

Although you should choose Heat Wave turbo yeast for special circumstances. You can really never go wrong with Hour turbo yeast. Most people choose it when buying yeast here at Mile Hi Distilling. There are a couple of things you should know about turbo alcohol yeast. First off, all strains of yeast go dormant when at a certain temperature too cold for them to thrive.

They will become inactive at a certain temperature too hot for them to survive. All our packets of yeast come with instructions on how much water and sugar to use with the yeast. As well as, what temperature it should stay at while fermenting.

You should expect to not have your mash go above 80F 27C for most of our yeasts. With this said, make sure when fermenting, your bucket lid stays completely sealed on the bucket, and your airlock is snug and in place. It should take no more than 2 days for your airlock to start bubbling as carbon dioxide releases. If your airlock is not bubbling, something might be wrong with the fermentation. You can wait 2 days, and start the distillation at the cost of losing some alcohol by volume or percentage of alcohol in your wash, or you can wait five days and get the most alcohol by volume in your wash which will ultimately get the most out of your moonshine still run.

It shaves off a fair bit of time and leaves you a lot more productive. Let us know what you thought of this guide by leaving a comment or a star rating below 3.

This yeast has extra yeast nutrients to help the fermentation process happen quickly. Excellent yeast for moonshine sugar wash. This yeast is an excellent yeast for simple sugar wash fermentations. Satisfaction guaranteed. Still Spirits Hour Turbo Yeast 23 reviews. We do include complimentary ice packs with all liquid yeasts. It is difficult to guarantee that the ice packs will survive the trip given transit times and particularly hot temperatures.

Customer Reviews. Loved the rapid yeast. It got here as quick as it could. Overall super pleased. It seems a little high for 30 gallon of mash but I have a 3 inch diameter x 30inch long copper column with 9 water cooled reflux plates controlled with a needle valve and a 7 tube counter flow shotgun condenser.

I strips the alcohol out pretty good. On the first run it starts a good stream at F and continues until about F and then goes to a slow drip, That's when I know most all the alcohol has been stripped out.

If I let it run longer than that it will jump from F to F and start putting out water. The second run will start out at F and then slowly clime to F and jump again if I let it.

IF I do a third run it starts a good stream at F and continues slowly to about F and then I shut it down. I tested the stuff left in the boiler and it was pretty much just pure water.

I have used the exact same Red Star yeast for whiskey, rum and neutral for about a year. Keeps me honest in that I know that I won't try to push it to do more than it should.

I feel that it really brings a lot to the party on rums and whiskeys and is pretty easy to remove for neutral although not totally. I too have 30 gallon fermenters and a 15 gallon boiler. Since I can't put the full 15 gallons in, I instead do washes of about 26 gallons; gives room for fermenting and thus provides me with 2 13 gallon runs.

Would like to do the full 26 in one run but a bigger boiler will be down the road for me. Do you have access to dried, cracked corn? Gotta be a lot cheaper than the canned stuff. I always sanitize my fermenter with scalding hot water before starting a mash and when I'm not using it I wipe it down with bleach water and let it drip dry upside down.

So far I haven't gotten any molds or anything, I think it was the yeast or what ever kind of nutrient they used. FloridaCracker said: I have used the exact same Red Star yeast for whiskey, rum and neutral for about a year.

I can get dried corn or yellow corn meal but I use the canned corn because it already has a lot of dextrose in it and I get the corn, sugar and yeast all at the same GFS store on the way home from work. There is a few farms around here that sell fresh produce, They have that bi-color sweet corn on the cob, they pick that stuff early in the morning at daylight and if they don't sell it within 2 days they throw it out or give it to farmers free to feed their pigs and cows.

If I want it all I have to do is go there and pick it up. That sweet corn on the cob gives a sweeter smell and taste to the liquor but it's a pain in the ass to shuck it and cut it off the cob. The stuff in the can is all ready to go I just grind it up in a blender, cook it for an hour with enzyme to convert the starch, add nutrient and dump it in the barrel. I use 50 lbs of cane sugar with it and it turns out pretty good. When I mix the sweet corn with cane sugar you can't tell the difference it just makes more alcohol.

From 30 gallons of sweet corn mash and cane sugar I end up with 4 and a half to 5 gallons of proof. Grim says that much alcohol for 30 gallons of mash seems like a lot but on average that's what I get. I have a 40 gallon HDPE plastic barrel that I fill to 30 gallons with the corn and sugar and water, I get two 15 gallon still fulls from that. Last night I did a first run and I have almost 6 gallons of somewhere around proof, When I run it a second time I know I going to have at least 4 maybe 4 and a half gallons at or proof.

When I run my still, the hot water that comes out of my condenser I run right into my fermenter barrel to add the corn and sugar so that when I'm done with the run the fermenter is cooled down enough to add the yeast. It saves on the water bill a little bit. Nice conservation move on the water. The cooking of the corn might be more work than needed. Sounds like you have plenty of sugar without it. The great thing about all of this is that we can do what works for us individually.

I am carrying over quite a bit of grain flavor now. Not so much in the early generations. The backset added to the next Gen really helps with that.